I don't like winter

Its official..I do not love winter in Boston, nor in San Francisco, nor in Cape Town. I need warm!!! Its just quite dismal rainy, gray and dreary here at the moment..
I guess you should all check back in with me though when we are in India on the tail of Monsoon, and in close to 100degree heat..I am not so sure I will love that either!!!
Today we are relocating to a new hostel here in Cape Town, and we are anxious to see if the drams of psy-trance bumping so loud till midnight, and people slamming dishes in the kitchen starting at 6am happen there too...we are crossing our fingers that the situation is a little quieter. I mean..I would even settle for just good music played loud..but psy-trance??!?!?!!! Come on!!! We are not at a bad 90s rave wearing neon and swinging glow sticks at each other all illuminated by black lights and laser beams!!!! Nor do I want to be, EVER!!! Please, I ask you all to cross your fingers for us too!!
As for the rest of our time here I am hoping to meet some cool people. We have been out a few times with no current success. Its a shame really, we are in what is supposed to be a fierce city, but we just can't seem to crack it. Although, it may have something to do with the weather. Were we in San Francisco and the weather was like this I would be hibernating, so maybe all the locals are just cozied up in their apartments eating popcorn and watching movies..
ok..of to lug our life to a new residence for the time being!!
xoxoxo
Alicia Claire

Travel Tips: Planned Pickups

A quick travel tip for those planning a round-the-world adventure like us.

One of the things I find most stressful about travel in the second and third world is simply getting around. Taxis are often not fitted with meters, and operated by people who sadly, are really out to scam you of as much money as possible. A typical scene so far (judging from my experiences in India, Thailand, Egypt, and, Tanzania) is exiting an airport or bus station into a hoarde of yelling people trying to get your money. In almost all of these occasions I've found the only normal/nice people are set back from the crowd, waiting patiently with their vehicle (note, these are usually the people who don't speak any English). Fine to head off through the crowd when only got a small bag, but when you are trying to keep the masses from hassling your wife and hauling 70-80 pounds of luggage between you, this is a tall order.

So to avoid all this nonsense I've tried to pre-arrange transport for our arrivals into less than desirable transport terminals. This typical means the magic person waiting with your name on a card. In America I'd imagine this costs a fortune, but the places we've been I figure you are paying double the normal rate for this service. What you are getting is (hopefully) a nice driver who speaks some English and works for a company that is not run by a bunch of thieves.

So far, this really has been a wonderful idea. We had this setup on our arrival and departure in Cairo, Dar es Salaam (both airport and ferry terminal), Zanzibar, and Cape Town. And I'm going to figure out who to do this in Mumbai if at all possible. We've either made these bookings with our local travel agent or the hotel where are are staying first.

Cape Town goodness

Ok..After being in Tanzania, such a wild, beautiful, and un-city like environment..it was a welcome change to end up in Cape Town.
Upon arriving, just on our ride from the airport to our hostel I was struck with the sense of San Francisco..as I am sure Jonathan will write about as well. The hills and fog, all by a bay. I felt at home. It was a good feeling. I am not one to be homesick..never have been, but being here feels nice. It reminds me of a life I love, and seeing other countries and ways of life is completely amazing, but a reminder of what we left behind is cozy too.
This is an urban city with fashion, and diversity. The price is right as well, as we are still in Africa, and the dollar still holds precedence over the rand..thank goodness for us!! It is winter here though, but once again, just like San Francisco. Chilly but tolerable.
A blessing and a curse is where we are staying. It is the real deal hostel, and up until now we have been staying in small guesthouses and cheap hotels...which we may not have seen as a luxury until now!! I actually was excited to stay where we are staying before we got here...and its not so bad..its just, we really are adults, and the same nonsense that was tolerable years ago in Hostels is now annoying!!!
There are all different ages staying there, but mostly young people. Young people with no courtesy. In the morning some people have been so loud, it is just crazy..I mean really...who would shout outside another persons room before 9 am ever??!?!?!?!!? Oh, and the bar plays THE WORST music at full blast all the time, that resonates through speakers right outside our room. Literally..they have repeated songs so many times I now know the words to some of the lamness.
The good news is that there is a fully equipped kitchen which is totally dreamy for me and my dreamman, since we love to cook. We have gone to the grocery store multiple times now, and keep whipping up the goodness. We could not be happier with that. The problem is that it is a communal kitchen, and you are expected to clean up after yourself. A simple notion you may think...yeah me too. But of course there is always a dirty dish or the counter or dining table covered in crumbs from dinner. What is wrong with people??!?!?!! It drives me a lil crazy..but there is nothing we can do, but grin and bare it, although I am tempted to leave nasty notes all over the kitchen!!!
Oh the perils of traveling, and shared spaces. I suppose this will only make us appreciate things we have such as our own stunning kitchen when we get back!!

Ok..I miss you all.
xxoxoxo
Alicia Claire

Cape Town reminds us of home, and then it doesn't

We arrived in Cape Town on the 25th after a rather easy set of flights on South African (travel tip: pre-hydrate before going to the airport in Dar es Salaam, there is no AC or fans). As we drove into town and crossed around Table Mountain on the N2 the city came into view below. For those who have taken 101 from SFO into the City the similarity of the view below was stunning. We could see the skyline and city below, with the port in the background.

The next morning we set out from our guesthouse in very San Francisco winter-esc weather. Table Mountain was clad into fog and the temperature was in the low 60s. As we walked through the very narrow, European like streets it seemed so much like the Upper Haight. About a mile away houses lined up the mountainside, including one bright pink house which of course reminded us of home.

We've spent quite a bit of time up and down Long Street here, which is much like Haight in its collection of cool shops, hipsters, and crazy people. We also walked all the way down to the Cape Town harbor, which is a very busy working harbor as well as super tourist zone. After about 20 minutes we were both trying to figure out how to get out of there!

So many things are vaguely familiar. The city clearly was built with a European feel, much like how I think San Francisco is the most European of major US cities. There are a great deal of Victorian buildings in the neighborhood where we are staying. People, on the whole, are quite warm, and the weather is, well... cold like SF.

All this said, we are without a doubt, not at home. For starters, Sundays here are dead - the city literally feels like a ghost town. But deeper there are a number of things that are a bit disturbing. White people don't seem to walk around unless they are tourists. Coming from San Francisco, and walking almost everywhere this is super weird. I can only speculate as to why, but I'm assuming it has to do with money. White and "Coloured" (this is a wildly used South African term for people who are not white, and not African, generally referring to people of South Asian / Asian decent) people have money for cars; Africans typically do not (or a more positive explination would be that they are smarter than the rest and realize that walking places in such a beautiful city is the way to go). Mass transit here is terrible, or is reportedly very dangerous, so I can understand why people would walk everywhere.

Of people we see on the street, my eyes tell me there has been very little mixing of the races. South African history would of course explain why, but it is really weird for us to see. The White people are really White - to the point where I think I can tell the Dutch and British apart (though who knows if I'm right). The Africans seem very, very African, etc... This coming from California where everyone really has been all mixed up for some time (thank goodness), its strange to see.

Tonight we walked down to the Internet cafe where we are now. The view was of a narrow street that could have been lifted right out of the Upper Haight, complete with a green hillside lined with nice looking homes (re: imagine looking up to Ashbury Heights from one of the narrow streets off Fredrick). Right next to our head sounded a rhythmic "zap... zap" of an four-wired electric fence on top of a six foot concrete fence guarding a fancy home. Signs for the chosen "Armed Response" security company where plastered on the side. A very clear reminder we are not at home, and are in a country with serious problems. As we walked I reminded myself to not raise my arms, since doing so would get them very close to audibly scary voltage levels...

-Jonathan

Kilimo Kidogo on Zanzibar

So as you know Lover and I stayed at Paje by Night, which was lovely..but all in all it was expensive, and we did our fare share of the area looking for other spots to entertain ourselves.
One semi rainy afternoon Jonathan and I decided to walk all the way down the beach to the right of where were staying. We ended up discovering Kilimo Kidogo all the way at the end, as far as we could go before there was a curve of land and ocean keeping us from walking any further. We stumbled up the sandy walk after what was I suppose a mile walk there. I went inside to look at their menu, and was warmly greeted by Dina, the owner. She has bright red/orange koolaide coloured hair, and piercing blue eyes. She is a South African woman who roles every R to an amazing degree, and makes English sound wild. I loved her immediately!
After a brief look at the menu, which as a vegetarian I was quite pleased with, we decided to sit and have a cocktail at the outside bar to rest after our walk. It was there that we met Mark, Dina's nephew who is also from South Africa.
What luck for us, since our next stop was South Africa. We ended up be-friending Mark, and went back to Kilimo Kidogo to hang out quite often. Mark and Dina gave us all sorts of good info for our travels here in Cape Town and through South Africa, and we could not be happier with their insight. The drinks at Kilimo Kidogo were cheaper than where we were staying, and the food was delectable. I had a vegetable curry in coconut sauce with spiced rice more than once there, and enjoyed every delectable last bite!! There is also a pool table there that you can play for free vs. the one where we stayed that you had to pay for.
If I were to go back to that area anytime soon, Jonathan and I would surly stay there. We got to see the rooms, and the guesthouse is really one large building with maybe 5 rooms in it..super cozy and homey feeling. I would highly recommend this spot to anyone wanting to go to Zanzibar!!
Thank you Dina and Mark, and we hope we see you again!!
xoxoxoxox
Alicia Claire

Vomitorium

OK..So I know that Jonathan already told about our ferry ride, but I just had to add to this.
Do you all remember watching Stand by Me??!!
Yeah..well..how about the scene when the kid is at the pie eating contest, and he just eats too much, and starts throwing up, then all the crowd starts throwing up, and before you know it the entire stadium, bleacher by bleacher are throwing up..
This was what it felt like on that ferry ride. I only have mind over matter to thank for holding it together!! Well that and the fact that I did not take a Little black plastic bag, so I had no option!!!
I will never ride that ferry again, and that is a good thing...one of my toughest trip moments yet!!
xoxox
Alicia Claire

Travel Tips: Stone Town is not the Jam

We hate Stown Town. If you are planning a stay in Zanzibar we recommend you skip it, minus a few possible errands.

The main downside to the town are the street touts, known locally as papasi (ticks). They are so utterly annoying I don't really want to go into it as I'm just going to get frustrated all over again. They are worst in the super tourist areas like Shanghai (a neighorhood) and by the ferry port.

Stown Town does have a few banks. The NBC branch is easy to find (Visa labeled cards only). There is also a place to buy booze across from the post office. We'd highly recommend bringing your own supply to any other place you might go on the island as drinks are (for Tanzania) expensive. Wine is impossible to find outside of touristy locations.

Another recommend: if you are coming off the ferry in Stone Town (or airport) schedule a pickup with your hotel ahead of time. You'll save yourself some stress.

beauty days and dinner parties!!

Two of my favorite things!!!
So I was just about to have a mental breakdown over my hair..when I got the hook up!! Being on Zanzibar was amazing, but all that sun and sea water was not the look for my fast fading locks. I was featuring a faded red orange look..which was not the look, not to mention I totally had roots which is an absolute faux pax for me. Thank goodness for my array of sparkly scarfs I brought with me, that I used as head band wraps.
While in Stonetown I did buy a box of red henna, but I wasn't quite sure how to use it, and also, the place we were staying strongly forbade getting henna on their sheets or towels. I sent my sister in law, Amy, an email, since I knew she had hennaed her hair before. She gave me all the good info, but I thought I would just check with the 2 ladies who did massage and henna at our place Paje by Night. They are the sweetest, and although they only perform henna art designs on the skin, they offered to do my hair!!
I totally got the hook up!! I had the most amazing experience! Khadija is the name of the girl that first agreed to take on the ask, and the other lady just joined in. I sat on the floor, while these two woman smeared my hair with the henna. They were so particular, and used a toothbrush around my hairline for perfection. As they chit chatted in Swahili, it was so funny, because when they came across my dreadlocks they both cooed.."Rasta"!! I loved it. I have to admit it was quite lovely to sit back and relax and let someone else do my hair dye. I have gotten so used to doing it myself for so long, but what a treat to be pampered.
After the henna was all up in my hair, Khadija brushed the color through with a comb to make sure she had gotten every last strand. I left the color in for a couple of hours, and hung out with the ladies siting on the floor and chilling out.
Khadija loved Jonathan and I, and her English was quite spectacular, so we got to have some good conversation. After a while of hanging out, she asked us if we would like to go to her house for dinner the next day!!! This to me was the absolute icing on the cake to getting my hair done. First of all, for all who know me well, know I love love love a dinner party!!
Jonathan and I had been hoping to get invited to someones home the entire time we were in Tanzania, and to receive this offer just 3 days before we left the country was such luck. To be asked to dinner is such an honour, and not an invitation given often to tourists, I am sure.
The next evening, with my new deep burgundy red hair, and my full outfit that I had made in Moshi, Jonathan and I went to me Khadija at the gate. We waked throughout the village in complete darkness to her home. Upon entering, it was also pitch black. There we people sitting in the first room that we did not notice until someone coughed..it was that dark. In the adjoining room there was a reed mat on the floor with a piece of fabric on top, and one small candlestick burning. We slipped off out sandals and sat on the floor. Khadija proceeded to bring out mounds of food, plate after plate for us. There was rice, chips {french fries}, spinach, beans, and 2 fried fish fresh from the ocean in a vegetable curry sauce. There was literally enough food for a family of 5, yet it was all for Jonathan and I.
I know this sounds bizarre, but that is how it is done there, and when you are invited to dinner at someones home, they serve you, and only you as their guest and do not eat with you...!!! We insisted that Khadija and her boyfriend at least sit with us. Rveryone should be shocked to learn that I ate the fish!! Well, tried it..too be courtious. I figured if there was ever a chanve to do so, this was it.
All in all it was a spectacular and wonderful experience. We feel too lucky once again.
OK...cant wait to have dinner parties with all you crazy people too!!!
xoxoxox Alicia Claire

Not our favorite ride...

We arrived yesterday in the de-facto captial of Tanzania, Dar es Salaam. Our mode of transport from Zanzibar was one of the many high speed catamaran ferries that many times a day from here to Stone Town.

As we were sitting in the ferry dock in Stone Town a worker came up and started handing out little black baggies. Alicia asked me what they were for, and I replied with something that included the word "vomit". This prompted Alicia to wonder if we needed one too. I was conviced I would not need one... and thankfully I was right.

However, a great many of our fellow passengers were not so lucky. The lady behind me started throwing up the moment we hit the ocean channel (and thus the big waves). She had two more unfortunate moments the rest of the ride. I believe there was another person behind Alicia throwing up, as well as a small child who was, umm, unhappy lets say, the entire time.

We were sitting in the upstairs deck of our ferry, outside (this is the "1st Class" area). I don't want to imagine what the downstairs was like. That area is much wider with small windows to look our and watch the horizon. Keeping your eyes out of the boat is of course the best way to avoid being ill besides taking medicine.

Some thoughts to readers who may come across this article doing research on the Dar<->Stone Town ferry:

1. If you have any pre-disposition to being motion sick (like my beloved sister :), DO NOT take the ferry. Cough up the money to fly. Tickets are now around $80-$90 (vs. $40 for a 1st Class ferry ticket) and will probably keep going up with the price of oil.

2. The slower ferries (three + hours vs 90-100 minutes on the fast ferry) might be better or worse. Better as they are hitting the waves slower, worse as they are monohauls and will tip more in the waves. Locals ride the slow ferries, so if you are after a more authenic experience, that is your way to go.

3. If you do take a fast ferry, I'd recommend the company Azam Marine. Most people I spoke with said they operate the nicest/cleanest boats, and also have more runs per day. Note: you can only buy tickets one day ahead of time, and you will likely need your passport.

-Jonathan

Some thoughts on doing nothing...

All in all, doing close to nothing on the beach in Africa for 11 days was as wonderful as I'd imagine it could be. Our activities of reading, eating, walking on the beach might not suit everyone, but if anyone reading thinks this may be something for them I'd encourage you to give it a try.

I can clearly say I'm more relaxed now than I was a week and a half ago, which to me is a bit strange, since my last day of work was in early May... I think there are many negative things about leading a super busy, 'driven', modern Western life that is very, very hard to shake. I think for many of you readers I think this observation is a bit like stating the obvious.

After sitting watching the eight different colors of blue in the Zanzibar coast line change under the sun day after day I simply feel much better.

We have had an amazing time here. If anyone reading this later is planning a world trip we would highly encourage anyone to plan a 10-15 day stay in the middle of your trip somewhere like Paje. It is long enough to really, really unwind yourself as well as enough time to meet some locals.

Speaking of, we are off this evening for our dinner in the village with a local friend we met, Hadidja. We could not be more excited!

We are off tomorrow for the ferry from Stone Town to Dar. Then a flight to Cape Town, very exciting to see a new country.

-Jonathan

Dancing Da Da Dancing!!!

One of the things I love most in this world is DANCING!!! Before we left for this trip I vowed to dance all over the world, and to my disappointment, I have not been dancing as much as I would love. I did have an amazing dance moment with Sarah in Barcelona, but in Egypt there was no such thing..one more reason I was not in love, and in Zurich we were only there for 2 nights and did not have enough money. Finally..after being in Tanzania for almost a month..I got to work it out on the dance floor like a total wild woman!!!!
Here in Paje we have met quite a few locals, and gotten the chance to really hang out. A couple of days ago we met Isaou, "Mr Nice" is how he is often referred to by locals and village people. He is a super cool guy, our age, and fluent in English. The day we met him, he invited us out for some drinks at a local spot, and we jumped at the offer. We ended up on the beach at some spot we would have never come across in the neighboring town of Jambiani. There was a bonfire flaring from a hole dug in the sand, and a bar with lots of boys with dreadlocks and cool looks hanging out. The DJ was playing funky reggae. That evening was all about chilling out, and we got to have some good conversation with interesting people happy to speak English, and talk to a lady {me} since local girls don't really hang out for cocktails. That evening we learned about a huge festival that was starting 2 days later. This festival happens the same time every year and lasts for 4 days. The festival takes place in Macanduchi, and is a celebration of the Persian New Year and Old customs that date back to when the Arabs ruled Zanzibar. At this point it is a crazy day of kooku customs, and 4 nights of dancing and debauchery.
Isaou, being our new friend and truly a nice guy invited us to go with him and a bunch of his friends to the daytime part of the festival, and then to also go dancing later. This was so lucky for us. Had we not met Isaou, we would have never known about this amazing festival, and would have missed out on one of the best moments Zanzibar has to offer. We met up with Isaou at 10am, and piled into his car to drive the 1/2 hour over to Macanduchi. This ordinarily quiet dirt road village is turned into a full out hot spot with booths set up selling everything form peanuts, corn on the cob, cigarettes, plastic toys, strange white faced dolls, soda soda soda, and more. The day time part of the festival is all about tribes of men running through the town, and all meeting in a clearing for a full on battle with banana sticks. This is absolutely crazy, and even disturbing. First of all it is hot out. Very very hot, and these guys are running, some dressed in full winter coats, trench coats, sweaters, hats, caring whips made of plant fibers and banana tree sticks, and bizarre face makeup. While they are running they are singing some song about the woman, which later in the afternoon the women respond to by running and singing.
Once everyone has gathered in the clearing {close to 1000 people} and the guys have run too many laps and are sweating to death, the fight begins. Apparently its all in good fun, but seemed vicious to me. The tribes start wailing on each other with the sticks and whips while the crowd cheers. It is now obvious why they had on coats and hats..as armour!! Needless to say this whole scene was too dramatic for me, but people were loving it. After the whole banana beat down everyone leaves to shower, rest, eat and get ready for the night party.
We went back around 8:30 with a car packed with locals. As we arrived and got out of the car people actually shouted "Muzungo!!!" in surprise {which means "White Boy/ white person"}. Many tourists go to the day part of the festival, but not many end up at the night party. We made our way to what seems now the most popular disco. {The disco is just a plot of land encased in canvas walls} There had to be at least 5 different discos set up, djs blasting music, and lights flashing all raver club style. It was a little like a Burningman dance party only in Africa and we were the only white people!! Amazing.
The music was so loud, and I was so glad I had remembered to bring our earplugs. The sound was mostly local dance music, and some reggae and dance hall. I was in love. I danced from the moment we got there till I had nothing left. 3 and 1/2 hours must have passed I was drenched in sweat and too happy. The dance floor was packed and people were having it. The scene was amazing!!! There was a good mix of guys and girls, but no lady was dancing like me, that's for sure. I think some people thought I was crazy, but mostly they all loved me for being a wild woman. The only drinks to have was warm beer!! uughhh gross...I stuck to water and was fine, and better off since I was so sweaty..I needed to replenish. I had not worked my body out like that in a long time, and it just made me feel so incredible. I LOVE DANCING!!!!!
Because we had gone out with Isaou before, we ended up knowing so many people on the dance floor, and that made the evening even better. At one point I really looked around, and realized I was dancing amongst boys of all ages, girls in their fancy printed outfits, and headscarves, Masai Warriors draped in their tribes fabric with stretched earlobes, all kicking up a red orange dust from the ground, and it dawned on me how lucky I was.
I love Tanzania too much, and am sad to leave tomorrow. I have another amazing story to tell, but you will all have to stay tuned..I need to go and get my act together for now.
xoxoxoxoxoxox
Alicia Claire

Izi Brizi

One day left in Tanzania before we carry on to Cape Town.

We have been too lazy and it has been amazing!! After all the drams in Egypt over eating, Tanzania has been easy breezy!!! One of our fav spots here at Paje is the local goodness. Jonathan and I were just strolling down the beach one day, and we saw this sign in the sand with a menu on it. We decided to walk up to it and check out the spot. The restaurant is a lil off the beach which is a good thing, as when the tide comes in it swallows all the sand with it, practically leaving no space to even walk. The little sand entrance is next to all the fishing net used for their daily catch: string up on wood pillars jammed into the sand. The nets have old flip flops attached to them for floatation. It is a neat image..the blue and green net dotted and sparkled with red, green and yellow flip flops cut in half dripping and draping on sun bleached wood.
Once we have stepped over 2 logs in the white soft sand we are ofically in the dining room of Cham's Restaurant. There are 3 tables with sandy table clothes and kerosene lamps. The chairs are made of sticks and branches that had been wet and stretched so that they curved, and the actual seat and seat back is tight animal hide. The seats freak me out a lil, bit they are the local look everywhere we go. The ground of course is that comfy cozy sand, and when you sit, the chair sinks in as much as you weigh into the softness.
They have a menu at Chams, but after you eat there once, they basically will make you anything you want as long as they can get it. I am not a seafood eater..but I am sure it could not be any fresher than at Chams. The first night we ate there I had a tomato vegetable curry with rice and Lover had a chicken curry. They served Chipati with our meal which is traditionally Indian, but their version is more like fried dough and delectable. The price was right as well..about half the price of any other food here in Paje, and that's including drinks.
At night its completely dark except for the timid glow of the 2 Kerosene lamps, and a flashlight they use in the kitchen. The kitchen is just a white washed coral hut with palm leaf roof, and a small triangle in the wall where the food comes out. On our second night eating there we went by earlier in the day and requested a special meal not on the menu. I was dying to have Wali na maharagwe na michicha {rice with beans and spinach} its a local dish and totally delish. I know it sounds boring, but its not, the spinach is cooked to perfection, and you all know how I love my spinach!! They also serve this dish with a stunning salsa and the chipate which just takes it over the edge of goodness. After an amazing meal and hanging out with Omar, the guy who owns it, I asked if I could look into the kitchen through that silly little triangle.
I was in disbelief. There was practically nothing in there!!! I am serious. There was a woman sitting on the earthen floor who rolls the chipati right there on a metal plate, 2 guys hanging out, one small shelf with some bowls, spices, and really not much else. Oh...and no electricity. None!! They make everything with one measly flashlight!!! The grill is out on the side of the hut. I cannot express to you all how good their food is. I am too happy to be enjoying local goodness, and hanging out with the local people. They are so happy every time we show up, and just sit at our table and hang out with us. We love it! We share english words and phrases with them, and they return the favor with Swahili bits for us. Omar fell in love with my easy breezy and even wrote it down so he would remeber it : Izi Brizi he wrote. Amazing.
ok..more later..
xoxoxoxo
Alicia Claire

A Day in Zanzibar

Today we...

ate a yummy breakfast of fresh bread, cookies, cake (the place is run by Italians), tropical fruit, and eggs (which showed up on Africa time, meaning 20 minutes late).

Then we walked down the long, wide, white sand beach and picked up shells. Before we got stuck on the other side of the beach during high tide we walked back.

We then read our books for a while.

Then we had a glass of wine and then walked down the beach to an amazing dinner at "Cham's Resturant" (more on this soon).

We've been relaxing like this for days now. Five more days and then we're back to our "real life".

lazy days

here I am.

Lounging on a zebra print couch next to my lover. Its warm, but its also breezy and overcast. We woke and stumbled out of our gigantic bed and walked about 30 steps to the outside dining area for our free breakfast of fresh bread, cake, a coffee biscuit, African coffee, a plate of the freshest bananas, pineapple, mango, oranges, watermelon and lychee we've ever had, along with fresh squeezed mango juice, and our choice of eggs {scrambled, omelet, boiled,or fried}. Not so bad to only have to sit, and have everything brought to you.


After breakfast we sit, or lay in a hammock, and read, contemplate taking a nap. Its too lovely. Perhaps later we will take a stroll down the beach, a dip even.

It has now been 1 day less than 2 months since we left San Francisco. Its our 3rd day here in Paje. I have officially adjusted. My morals of always feeling the need to do something, of feeling lazy and bummy if I am not accomplishing some task, have subsided, and finally I am happy and content to just be. To just be alive and enjoy breathing, and sitting, and the fresh breeze, and the music of all the different languages being spoken around me.

This is a very strange and marvelous way to feel. It makes me wonder why we all get so caught up in the hustle and bustle. You know, in having to do this, and that, and meet up, and see this person, and expecting phone calls, and having to return phone calls. When I was working as an esthetician in San Francisco I prided myself on helping people to zone out and relax during facials, but even then, some of my clients could not turn off their phones, could not disconnect..and I, myself would even be checking my phone every time I walked into the break room. Modern communication is great, yes, but almost even better to forget about sometimes too.

Here..amidst sea breezes and cool jazz, my communication has been widdled down to diary-ing for all of you, and whimsical conversations with strangers, where there is no necessary point or determination to the conversation. Its become a pure pleasure to meet and share and just listen with other and new people..

Needless to say, I am happy, and relaxed..so relaxed, and I wish this for all of you out there too.
xxooxox Alicia Claire

Flying Fun

Our flight from Arusha to Zanzibar was amusing. The Arusha airport (ARK) is essentially a long asphalt airstrip with all waiting areas outside. The security process was rather standard, but the walk out to the plane was not as we were walking around a number of private planes. Alicia boarded a 19 passenger, twin engined turboprop (the make I could not figure out) while the other passengers boarded a small looking twin engined Cessna. Our plane looked a bit more durable...

On the plane we sat for a bit, then the pilots stuck their heads out from behind their curtain and said: "There is no washroom on the plane, so this is your suggestion to go now if you need to." No one got up, and then we got started with a "We ask that you fasten your seatbelts." No nonsensical safety briefing required.

The plane picked up with probably around 300-500 meters of runway left and then landed perfectly in Zanzibar about an hour later.

teal seas and pale skin

hello!!!
Wow!!! This place is too beautiful!! Just when I thought that Tanzania could not be any better we arrive here in Paje. I feel too lucky to be on this trip with my dreamlover, and just enjoying life.
We arrived here late afternoon after an hour ride from Stonetown. Of course the ride here was interesting and lovely to see the scenery. I have enjoyed every car ride in Tanzania, just because its such a wonderful way to get a glimpse of what else this country has to offer. I just cannot seem to get over the architecture of all the little homes and shops. They are very shanty looking, but beautiful as well with their often tin roofs and as Jonathan mentioned wood stick and rope construction.
Right after our delectable juice welcome, and dropping off our preposterously large backpacks {seriously..I don't know how we are even doing this with these things!!} We went straight to the ocean. It is the most clear teal and turquoise blue ever, and the temperature is warn and perfect. Although Jonathan didn't seen to find it as warm as I did, but then again, he did not grow up swimming in the Atlantic!! Today we are going to actually swim vs wade our feet. My biggest concern here at Paje by Night is my pale skin!! I have been trying my best, but despite my wildest efforts I have still gotten a lil colour :"{. We had to buy some strange not to be trusted sunblock, because we are almost out of my liquid anti sun block!!! AaHahahaha...Well, at least I have an umbrella and a sun hat. I am serious people..I am trying to look like a young lady forever, and that sun, no matter how lovely is my enemy in that!!!!
ok...off to swim and reflect the rays!!!
xoxoxoxo
Alicia Claire

tealseas and pale skin

Aloha from Paradise (with lots of annoying people around)

So our hotel (more like a mini resort) in Paje is "stunning" (Alicia's word). We are so happy to be here. The property is set about 50 meters back from the beach amongst a number of other hotels. The place is run by a few wonderful expatriate Italians and we were welcomed with big smiles and fresh mystery fruit juice (in a champange flute and straws - two of Alicia's favorites). All the buildings are either traditional brick or wood, straw, and rope constructions which adds a magical feel to everything.

The beach itself is amazing. The sand is from bleached white coral, and is really the softest sand we've ever encountered. As an added bonus, everywhere we go outside of the hotel we are followed by super annoying boys who want to sell us everything from boat rides to harass dolphins to a "snorkeling trip, tomorrow. Tomorrow? Tomorrow?" Actually, no thanks, not tomorrow or any day. I just want to sit on the beach! These micro-touts are more relaxed than in Stone Town or Arusha, but they are such a contrast to our peaceful time in the Carribean. We are hoping that they will eventually leave us alone.

All in all, I'm not sure we could have picked a better spot to spend 10 days. I'm very excited to go explore, run into the water, and then promptly find a hammock to nap.

-Jonathan

Hot, Humid, and now bug free!

We have escaped our really not good room. For future travel researching readers, avoid the Karibu Inn, located in Stone Town right next to the NBC bank.

We are waiting for a ride down to our hotel in Paje, Paje by Night. The reviews are good, so were excited to see what it will be like.

We are off to Cape Town, South Africa on the 25th and are spending lots of time planning the remainder of our trip there.

The history of Zanzibar is long and super interesting:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zanzibar

eeeuwwwuueueugghghgh..!!!!

OK...
This is not easy for me to write..as there is a HUGE cockroach on the floor to left of this computer!! This is Zanzibar. A beautiful and dreamy island with teal and turquoise waters, wind sand beaches...and cockroaches...everywhere!! uummmm ztztztztzz. Today we took a mini bus a lil bigger than a dala dala, but just as crammed to Arusha. From there we hopped on a tiny airaplane seating only 20, all of whom were white travelers. A major change from out\r last travel encounters. We arrived on this stunning island and were brought straight to our hotel, where thank god we are only spending a night before going over to our dream bungalow in Page {pronounced PAJAY}. The guy at the front desk was kind enough..but once we got up to our room I was not a happy lady!! There was a dead cockroach on the floor, no sheets on the bed, no windows, and a bad musty smell!!!
This was not what I imagined of dreamland!!! I am going to survive though, and I just have to realize that we are in the tropics, and there will be bugs, and I only have to stay there for 1 night!!
ok... off to suck it up...oh, we did get sheets for the bed though, and we sleep under a net, so no bugs will be crawling on my face at least!!!
xoxoxox Alicia Claire

George McCain!

Two nights ago we went out with a big group of Americans that we met at our hotel. Amongst the crew were the three UCLA med students Alicia already mentioned and the four people from Boise that I think we mentioned as well. Only one of the group, Jennifer, went to Gonzaga (I originally thought it was the whole lot of them). Jennifer lived in Moshi previously and after a bit we all went down the nearly deserted street (Moshi gets rather quiet at night) to the "East Africa Pub and Resturant", a very local watering hole. Everyone was very happy to see us and we ordered a pile of $1.50 Kilimanjaro beers (500ml!) and one Sprite, as the local custom is to put a dash of Sprite into your beer (rather good too).

After a while we met one "Paul", who deals in Tanzanite, a very expensive gemstone only found in an area north of here. Paul was quite loaded and was all about us importing Tanzanite. One of the people from Idaho is a Canyon County DA and he tried to convince the guy that selling Tanzanite in the US was illegal. This somehow got us on the subject of politics. Nearly all East Africans love Obama, but Paul was all about "George McCain". All about George McCain for 15 minutes until he finally went away.

All in all, a very hilarious evening. We did the short walk back on competely deserted streets and went to bed, only to be woken up by trashed 18 year olds getting wasted at the hotel bar downstairs. That is a story for a later day...

Some Long Overdue Photos

These are the times I would like to have my own computer. Resizing and uploading photos is quite time consuming. Here are a few fun ones to start out with.




The Red Pyramid - this is the one we got to go inside all by ourselves!



Turkish coffee is a bit, well, gross at the bottom. Alicia hated it, I enjoyed it a bit, probably because the stuff is like rocket fuel (before you get to the goop that is).



Don't order mixed drinks in Egypt. These were most likely the worst martinis ever made by man.



I took this out of the "pop-top" roof of the Land Crusier as we were coming into the Serengeti Sopa lodge a bit late from a flat tire and then broken jack.



A little family of elephants.



For Laura, yet another Serengeti sunset.



The drive down into Ngorogoro crater is amazing. This picture was taken a bit after the elephant ran out in front of us. The drive out was on a different, one lane, one way road that required 4-Low in the Land Cruiser. Fun!



Alicia and I with our wonderful guide and driver, Hamisi.



Last but not least, Alicia and her new dress with the excellent seamstress who made it! We'll post more photos of the full outfit soon.

dala dala

There is always too much to tell!!
So, Yesterday, Jonathan and I decided to be adventurous and get off the beaten path and away from the comfortable confines of our lil town where there are other travelers. We wanted to get out on our own with no guide or anyone to help us. This, we certainly accomplished!!! The night before we had gone out for drinks with all the peole we had met, and Jenn who had lived here for 7 months suggested we go check out a waterfall in a village called Marangu. We were all about it!!
We got up early, {which is getting easier and easier since we also go to be so early} Ate a lil breakfast at our hotel, and just went out into the day ready for an adventure. We knew that we would have to take a Dala Dala to get to where we wanted to go, so we went down to the bus station where there is a whole lot of dala dalas waiting to take off to all different locations.

A Dala dala is basically a VW bus, or a Nissan mini bus. Normal enough you might think...But let me prove you wrong. The inside has been gutted and put in are 4 rows. The last row is the longest which hold 4 people squished, and the other 3 rows area little smaller allowing for a teeny walk way along the door side of the bus, and 3 people cram onto those seats. Then there is the front seat where the driver sits, and 2 other passengers sit there too. The back side of the front seats faces the first row of the 3 people seat, and there are makeshift little fold down seats there, that 4 people cram into. After everyone is seated there are at least 4 people standing in the teeny walkway along the door!!!

Jonathan and I were lucky enough to get there with enough time to be crammed into the last row, and actually have a seat. Of course on or walk over to the bus stop, some young guy decided to walk with us, telling us where the Dala dals were, even though we could figure this out ourselves, and once we got one, he expected us to give him some money for helping us get there!! This is Africa!! Anywhere you go, people walk with you, and act like they are helping you, even though you never invited them to walk with you, nor did you ask for help, and then expect to get paid. It seems when Jonathan says to go away or that we are all set they keep on keepin on, and won't take no for an answer but when I get all stern on them, and basically wave them away with my hand they get the message. I don't think they are used to woman getting all fierce or something, but I am just not gong to put up with it!!!

After being crammed on the back of the dala dala for a little while we were finally off. The least amount of people jammed in was 24 adults, and the most we experienced was 30, which included children. The dala dala puts along somehow, and stops frequently along the route to let people on or off, and just when you think that not another soul could possibly fit, they squeeze their limbs in!! The ride was filled with the all to human scent of heat and muskiness, and my butt hurt from basically being propped up on the part of the seat that was over the wheel.

We made it to the village in about 35 minutes, and the ride cost us about 1.10$ us dollars. I am sure we will see more dala dala rides, especially here in Africa. With a price like that we cant pass it up! Even with the sweaty people and butt cramps!!!
Overall it was a wild experience, and I am glad we did it, after all, it is how all the locals get from here to there.

Once we arrived in the village of Morangu, we just had to pretend like we knew where we were going, because of course, the vulture boys pounced on us as soon as we stumbled out of the dala dala, walking alongside us, trying to tell us they would take us to the waterfall. I literally had to stop walking stand still, and give the evil eye to the guys, and tell tell them "Sitaki asante!!" in my sternest voice, which means "we don't want {your help} thanks!!". Finally they got the picture, and Jonathan and I actually had no trouble at all, as there were signs leading up the mountian mentioning the waterfall.

Morangu is a tiny village on the base of Mt Kilimanjaro, and is so lush and green and brimming with Banana trees. We had to hike up, and the ground was slippery mud since it had rained earlier...luckily we both wore sneaks and did not fall, although came close a couple of times. At the base of the mountain is where the village center is, which has some little shanty shops, a few small bars/restaurants, and an outside market of vegetables, shoes, clothes, and fabric laid out on blankets and women chilling out next to their goods. The hike up leads to all the tribes peoples homes, and we saw many woman either hiking up or down with their baskets on their heads to go to or from the market. All the people we passed were lovely and happy to see us, or maybe surprised. The hike up was so stunningly gorgeous, dewy and green. The people that lived there are not rich in money, but they are rich in scenery and beauty. They live in one of the most beautiful places ever!!

Once we made it to the waterfall we had to then go down a crazy stairwell of rocks and mud with all too handy bamboo railings to get to the best view. Jonathan and I were the only people there, and enjoyed our picnic lunch I had packed of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and chips next to a swirling pool of water and the rushing sound coming from the waterfall.

Needless to say our day trip was amazing, and we cannot wait to have more off beaten path expeirences!!!
xoxoxoxo
Alicia Claire

fashion victim, and I love it!!!

Its official!!! I have a full outfit made of one kooky crazy print, and I love it!!! I picked it up from my seamstress on her street corner, and promptly went back to our living quarters for now and put on the outfit. I went right back to the street corner to show my lady, she and all her girl assistants were so happy!! There was lots of oohhing and aahhing and words I did not understand, and strange handshakes, and Jonathan even took a photo of us. Hopefully he will be able to load it up. I know we have not put any pictures up yet, but we just have either not had the time or the slowest Internet connections EVER!!!!
Anyway...I love my outfit, and there was even enough fabric left over for her to make me a gorgeous long strapped tote bag too. All together the the look is too much...its a total fashion faux paux to wear all the same print head to toe!!! I mean the top, skirt and bag all the same patteren would be a catastrophe anywhere!!! So for now I will feature the top and skirt, and wear the bag with normal clothes!!

As we walked to the computer place, people on the street were staring at me with smiles. I think they were all happy to See me in something other than linen pants like all the travelers wear!!
ok..look for the pic!!
xoxo Alicia Claire

A plug for our Kenyan travel agent

My friend Jonathan hooked us up with his travel agent, Concorde Safaris, in Nairobi. We planned almost all of our Tanzanian visit with them. They can of course, do all of Kenya and a good chunk of the rest of East Africa as well.

I've sent them countless emails over the last few months, all answered well and quickly. They planned everyting down to airport transfers and meals before and after our safari.

Highly recommended for anything (including your international plane tickets) regarding travel to East Africa.

Travel Tips: Tanzania Transportation

We are going to start a series of posts aimed for the Googlebot to digest and index, hopefully for other travelers to pick up while doing their own research.

Here are our tips and experiences getting around Tanzania so far:

Arriving into Tanzania:

If you are flying to Tanzania for a safari out of Arusha, and have your choice of airlines, try and fly straight into KIA (about 45 minutes outside of Arusha). You'll save yourself a lot of hassle.

Because of restrictions on our RTW (round-the-world) ticket, we had to fly into Dar es Salaam via Swiss. We stayed overnight at the Royal Mirage hotel (which was excellent and well priced if you are on a mid-range budget). The next morning we took a Scandanivian Express (AFAIK, the bus line is named after the Scandia buses they use. There is nothing else Scandanavian about the experience) bus to Arusha. The bus is a relatively nice coach, but the ride is very long (ours was about 11 hours including an hour of the bus being broken down). The line does have the best reputation for comfort and safety here, so besides the mechanical problem I'd still recommend it. One note: get to the bus station early and sit up front. It smells bad by the bathroom.

Taxis anywhere in Tanzania: ask a local how much the ride is going to be before hand, there are no meters. Always name your price before you get in. Never open the coveration by asking "how much". A firm bet the price named will be at least 2x what you should pay.

Getting from Arusha/Moshi to Zanzibar: It is really easiest to fly. There is a slight chance you make make it from Arusha to Zanzibar in one day if you leave on a6:30am bus. However nothing here happens on time, thus it would be wise to schedule one night in Dar before getting on the ferry to Zanzibar Town. We are taking a one way Zan Air flight for about $170 each. You'll spend about $70-$80 for a comfortable bus ticket, taxis, and ferry tickets (for the quick ferry) and have around 13-14 hours of travel time when you are all done if you take the ground method. The flight is right around 60 minutes in the air (from the Arusha airport, ARK).

All the Animals

We've had a request by my friend Dan for some posts about animals on our safari. I'm going to write about what comes to mind on each of the animals we saw:

Lions (Simba): Lions are lazy. Think of house cats, but bigger, meaner, with huge claws, big mouths, and very cute (at a distance) faces. They will hunt (typically in a group) once every four to six days. They typically hunt zebra or bigger prey (there are a great many types of large, four legged antelope type creatures). Once they make a kill they will eat for a bit, then rest for a while, then eat some more, rest, etc... until they've had their fill. Hyenas, vultures, and other animals will finish off whats left.

After the kill the lions will sit around in the shade. We saw one pride of lions that seemed to have either made a kill recently, or were super lazy that had hordes of Thompsons Gazelle (a very small, fast deer like creature) literally about four to five feet in front of them. The lions seems to care less.

We saw at least twenty lions on the safari, and then often seemed to look right at us. Very, very cool. Being a Leo, and super fond of lions, this was one of the highlights for me.

Giraffe:

The giant giraffe are so amazing to watch. I believe they are distantly related to camels. They just don't seem real. The size and gait are hard to fathom when you are right in front of them. When they run it really looks like they are in slow motion, and will fall down at any moment.

Elephants: As much as I love lions, the elephants were my favorite. They are so huge and plodding, yet seem very very intelligent. We also got quite close to them a number of times. It is quite fun to see them eat with their long trunks and amble around.

On our way into the Ngorongoro Crater we saw an elephant burst through the brush in front of us, bolt across the road, and then plowed through the brush on the other side. It was moving very fast. Like many elephants in that area it had huge tusks. A most impressive sight and one of the highlights of that day.

More animals soon!

over achievers and curves

Wow...I still cannot believe we are traveling sometimes!! Staying here in Moshi is totally gorge...especially since we finally have some time to just chill out. We literally have been on the move from place to place so quickly. It has been wonderful, but since we were on the go so much it was hard to fully relax and crack into wherever we were. So far hanging out at our rooftop bar has been the best meeting place. Last night we met 3 med students from LA, Dave, Nate, and I forget the third guys name. They were super cool and interesting guys. One was origanally from Waltham {which is a town right next to Newton where I grew up} and he and his family share the same kind of love for the Chateau as mine does!!! This to me was hysterical, as I made it a must to go to that restaurant when we were visiting home before this adventure. I mean seriously, who would have thought I would meet a boy on the roof overlooking Mt Kilimanjaro who enjoyed birthdays and celebrations at my fav Italian family style restaurant???!!!! Too much!!
Theses 3 guys came to Tanzania and Kenya as part of a school study, and had the miraculous story to tell of being the ones to help a woman give birth in a hut about a week ago just by chance!! Not one of the guys had ever performed such a feat, and they had just been touring the "hospital" in Kenya when a woman who had just walked 3 miles from her village arrived ready to pop out a baby. The mid wife asked the guys if they wanted to do the delivery and they jumped at the chance. Apparently, within 20 minutes the baby was out, the woman had no drugs, and barley made a grunt, and after the cord was cut she literally got up, and took her baby to the next room. That same day she left to walk back to her village!!! Amazing. It just puts life in perspective I guess. I mean..babies have been being born forever, and in some places its no big deal. Could any of you imagine a women popping out a lil one and getting up and walking home right after in America????!!??!!?!?!?!?!
This morning on the same rooftop, over coffee we met 4 other travelers, one, a girl Jenn who went to Gonzaga {Jonathans college} a year behind Jonathan, and the 3 other guys who live in Boise!! Ummmmmzzzttztztztz!! Seriously this is totally crazy. It turns out the girl Jenn has lived in Moshi for 7 months working at an orphanage, and has just moved to Dar Es Salaam to teach.
Meeting people here is wild. Some of you might think that Jonathan and I have achieved a great feat in being able to take this trip, but after meeting people who have not only traveled here, but are assisting the community and helping in incredible ways, kind of makes me feel like an under achiever!! I am thinking that this trip is for us to explore and figure out what it is we want to give our energy to...there are too many causes and people to choose from. Perhaps later in the trip we will also be of assistance. I can only hope.
Tonight we are going to meet up with the 4 people we met today, and I am excited to pick this girl Jenns brain to get a better grasp of moshi and local fare. Just walking down the street as Jonathan mentioned, there are always annoying boys trying to sell you something or get you to hang out with them, and overall they are just scammers trying to take advantage of tourist. I am excited to hang out in the local spots where those guys do not lurk. They are not threatening, just annoying.
Yesterday as Jonathan spoke of in his last blog entry, I was so lucky to get some fabric to have a look made. The sister of one of the girls who works at the hotel took me to the hot spot. Her name is Sitta {I might have this a little wrong}. I had asked her to take us because I wanted the real deal. At first, I do not think she understood, and totally brought us to the tourist shop, and I took one look at the overpriced fabric there, and just gave her a look of no thank you. This time she understood immediately and took us throughout the busy streets past all sorts of non sense to a tiny hole in the wall shop, stacked from floor to ceiling with the most spectacular array of fabric. The most wild of patterns, prints and color were before me. This is what I was looking for. Sitta, who brought us, totally hooked it up, and asked the girl behind he counter to let me back there so that I could fondle and find the exact piece I wanted!!! I chose something fierce, which you will all se at a later date. We then went to a tailor on the street..{all along the roads are men and women with foot pedal sewing machines just working it out all day} Thank goodness for Sitta, because she then helped explain what I wanted, which I would have had a hard time communicating. I had drawn out a front and back image though to make it easier. Basically I got the traditional fierce lady look. All the woman here are wrapped and draped in kooky crazy fabric, but only some have the outfit tailored. I have loved it since we got here, and I knew I needed to feature it too. The entire outfit is made out of the same print fabric, so it actually appears to look more like a dress than a top and a skirt. The skirt is long and narrow falling just below the knees, and has small pleats on the bottom to make it easier to walk, and the top is a cap sleeved shirt. Both pieces will look great separately, as I will probably not be wearing a one piece dizzying outfit all at once when I get back to America. The tailor we went to was an older woman and she seemed kinda phsyced to make my outfit, and that I wanted the local look. She measured me to perfection just on the street corner, and I am positive she will make a masterpiece. I am sure she had a laugh about my measurements though, as I am not nearly as curvaceous as all the Tanzanian women!!!!
ok..till next time xxoxoxo
Alicia Claire

Moshi is the Jam!

Three minutes to type before I run out of Internet time...

Our decision to stay a while in Moshi appears to be quite sound. The town is very cute, less touts running around calling me 'Rasta' (though still quite a few).

Our hotel room (at the Kindoroko) stares out over Kilimingaro and the lush green of the valley and surrounding farmland outside the city. The hotel also has a roof top bar where everything is much cheaper than in Arusha.

One of the hotel reception people's sister helped Alicia get fabric and find a tailor today to help get a traditional dress and top made. She is so excited and I'm sure will post more about it soon.

OK, I'm out of time. More soon.

Africa Time and Mattresses

"Would you like to buy a mattress?", says a man on the street outside our hotel. Thanks for the offer, but I'm living out of a bag, and it is already full.

We've been spending our days wandering around the downtown area of Arusha. This city is the center of the huge Tanzanian safari industry. A side affect of this are a large number of very annoying touts who try to get you to book safaris or buy their stuff. The approach for us is, 'Hey, Rasta! Where you from? Spain, Italia? Holland, Israel?' 'Hey, if you don't want to talk to Africans, it means you no like us!'. 'Come to my shop.' etc... They will follow you for blocks and try and talk with you (or get you to buy them breakfast) and are generally utterly annoying. We now avoid a 1km stretch of the town so we don't run in to these guys, often with inventive names like 'T Bone' and 'The Bush Doctor'.

We had dinner last night outside of our favorite resturant here, "Big Bite", which turns out superior Indian food. If this place was in San Francisco, we'd go there all the time. Though it feels like we are in SF when we get the check, as any non-local food here is $5 to $8 a plate, US. We got to watch the locals walk by during dinner at dusk at is was a wonderful moment where being in Africa really hit home.

We had an even more local 'cultural experience' this morning due to a miscommunication with our favorite friend here, Hamisi (our driver on our safari). We were going to meet up for coffee, but he thought we were at a different hotel! So Alicia and I spent the early morning (7am on) sitting outside of our hotel on the busy Market road watching the daily market get set up.

There is apparently an occupation here of the local coffee delivery person. As we were sitting watching the endless stream of beautiful fabric clad women walk to the Market with heavy baskets of vegetables on their heads, the local coffee guy ran (quickly) up and down the road with his giant coffee pots and burners of hot coals. He deposited one right in front of us and after 45 minutes of watching it boil, we figured it was safe enough to drink. We ordered two tiny (though bottomless) cups for 500 Shillings (50 cents), got a big smile out of it from the coffee-guy, and enjoyed our massively overcooked instant coffee. Besides missing our friend, and getting up early, it really was a super memorable morning.

We are off today by bus to Moshi. We will be there for six days and then take a bus back here to catch a flight to Zanzibar. The flight will save us nearly 13 hours of ground travel time, and our noses much pain as the intercity buses here start to reek after about five hours.

Off now to make our way to Moshi!

zzzttzz...First things first:
Thank you to everyone who has left us comments thus far on our entries!! We love the lil tid bits, and feel connect to you when we read them!! This being said..the new rule is that if you read our blog, you MUST leave a comment!! It does not necessarily have to be pertaining to what we wrote, but maybe whats happening in your lives!! We would love that so much, so you must follow the rules!!!!!!

Ok...now to hear more about us and Tanzania.

We arrived in Dar Es Salaam late in the evening, went straight to our hotel, woke up at 6 am the next day to catch a bus to Arusha. That was supposed to be an 8 hour bus ride, but of course the bus broke down at one point and the ride lasted more like 10 hours!!..uughh.. I was so over it..although the drive through the country side was absolutely stunningly gorgeous. The ride was long and bumpy, but the chance to see the crimson earthen roads boarded by crumbling mud and stick huts was magnificent. Just getting a chance to view the simple but beautifully adorned people, the women in their brightly colored pattern outfits wrapped and tied in a way that no westerner could figure out, and the shells and beads of their jewelery dripping and draping off their neck and huge stretched ears. I loved it. The color of most peoples skin is the darkest espresso bean color and only gets richer day by day in the steaming sun I suppose. Then, of course, the greenest of green farmland and trees and bushes, practically glowing against the opposing crimson/russet earth.

Life in Tanzania is certainly different. There is no such thing as laziness...it could not exist. Unless one works and walks and carries staggering baskets and bundles on their heads with the babies wrapped and snuggled against backs they would not survive. It makes you take a step back in awe at how functioning everyone is here. It is amazing, and hard, but everyone has a smile on their faces showing off brown stained teeth, perhaps from the too good coffee available.

I am getting used to the new smell of a city or town, and actually look forward to using my sense of smell more. The quiet scents brewing from home and small shanty shacks is always inviting. Even the smell of the earthen ground here is stronger..and I like it. As we were driving through the mountain tops on our way down to the Serengeti I even had the urge to just get out of our safari car and get in the cool beautifully colored mud!! It would have been a fierce photo shoot!!!!

Speaking of photo shoots...I cannot wait to get our film from the safari printed. For a girl who does not love animals too much I was blown away with all the ones I saw on our safari. The closeness that we got to experience them was just unbelievable!! I could have literally reached out and touched zebras and lions!! Of course I did not, nor are you allowed, but to be so close, and look into their eyes is something of a wonder. We saw animals so huge you can just not understand from photos or picture books. Our Guide Hamisi was perfect for us, he was super laid back and had the eye of an eagle. He spotted things in the bush we would have never seen with or untrained city eyes. It just seems as if so many of my senses have been heightened from Traveling. In city life everything is so jumbled together that your senses never get a chance to fully eplode into their true glory. Where in here, they are just all heighten by what is true and raw.
ok...out of time
xoxoxoxox Alicia Claire

Sleepy and mother nature

Hello to everyone who is not in Africa!!! I am so sleepy, as we have gotten up before the sun every morning for our Safari....you heard me right... BEFORE THE SUN!!! I seriously would not be able to function if it were not for the stunning coffee that is grown on this green and gorgeous farm lodge we are staying at. It is literally the most beautiful place I have ever stayed in my life!!
Our Safari has come to an end and I will elaborate on it at a later date when I have more time, but I will tell you, that mother nature has surely out done herself!! The colors that make you wonder how crayon takes the claim..when they were all produced here in nature first. All the animals are wild to say the least...quite literally and figuratively...
ok...Jonathan's turn

Only a few minutes to type: the safari was incredible and all who has any vauge interest in doing such a thing needs to start planning. Seeing hippos and elephants and lions and all the other animals up close is nearly impossible to describe.

Tomorrow we are driving back to Arusha and staying there for about three days. Then we are headed an hour down the road to Moshi, which is right under Kilimingaro, and will be there for about a week. Lots more soon when we have cheap Internet.

-Jonathan

Lions, Cheetahs , and Zebras, oh My!

We are on safari! Writing this post from the most expensive Internet ever, so we must be brief:

1. A piece of advice: when on safari with Alicia, be sure to keep the glass door shut so she doesn't wake up in the middle of the night worried about being eaten by a lion (she thought she heard creepy breathing noises).

2. Being woken up by elephants making big elephant noises is possibly the only way I'm ok with being woken up in the middle of the night, besides possibly being woken up with the information that I just won the Thai Lottery (and cuddles from Alicia!).

3. Hippos smell. Really bad.

4. Lions are lazy (when not hunting).

5. All the people we've met and interacted with from Tanzania are so, so nice. It is also a bonus that Kswahili sounds awesome.

5a. Our driver, Hamisi, is the greatest.

5b. Land Cruisers are really neat (and bumpy, says Alicia).

6. Giraffes are crazy mutated camels. When they run it looks like they are in slow motion, and could fall down at any moment.

7. I want to talk to the Zebras, and Alicia thinks I'm crazy.

OK, out of time for today. More when we are done with our safari on July 4th.

-Jonathan