A country without change

Merchants typically do not have small bills in India. This is often a big problem.

If you change money, or go to an ATM, you get large notes. Typically 500 or even 1000 Rupee bills. Most things, minus hotels or a decadent meal, do not cost over 500 Rs. In fact many things are very very cheap (10-30 Rs). Thus trying to buy some gum with a 500 Rs. note will seriously provoke either laughter, anguish, anger, or all of the above.

As a traveler its almost impossible to stockpile up enough change. I plot out each purchase to generate the maximum amount of change possible. For rickshaws, and at small shacks, stands, shops, etc... its usually nice to give exact change as these people really don't have it either. But for busy restaurants, stores, etc... we are always handing over 500 Rs. notes and waiting for the eyes to roll.

Two days ago at breakfast (at Sam's Cafe, in our hotel - NOT recommended) we literally had zero change minus 500 Rs. notes. The staff got all bent out of shape at this. They called people, sent people outside, and generally glared at us for a few minutes before the chump behind the counter bills out the exact change we need from his pocket! No tip for him....

This scenario is played out constantly. It is quite a bother. Our plans are often dictated around making purchases for items like water before taking a rickshaw ride so we know we'll have enough change at the end. Many (but not all) of the rickshaw drivers here in Delhi are scammers, and they have no problem telling you they don't have 50 Rs. change for your 100 Rs. note, thus doubling the fare you were supposed to pay.

I'm told the source of the change problem is that there are simply not enough small bills in circulation. I must say I'm dubious about this. I think the most practical reason is that most merchants here do not often deal with the bank. In the US a merchant will go at least a few times a week if not daily to their bank to deposit their money and get a stack of change. Not here...

I believe I've got enough change to pay for our Internet, which is good, as I think we need to head back now :)