backwaters

Yesterday lover and I went for it, and boarded a houseboat in Alleppey at noon to take an overnight journey through the famed backwaters. The boat was quite large with a small kitchen in the back, then a bedroom with fan and attached bathroom for us, next was the living space with cushioned couches running the lengh of the boat, a dining table area, and a smaller table and chairs lounge spot as well. Our crew were 3 very nice Kerelan men who barley spoke English, so there was not much communication between us.

Jonathan and I put our day packs away and settled in for some relaxation and beauty. We left our monster packs at the guesthouse we had been staying at, it was as if we were taking a vacation on our vacation, only carrying our small backpacks!

Just as we found ourselves lucky in Goa to be there before peak season, we felt the same about the boat. At the take off spot there were hundreds of these boats, and I could just not imagine all of them out and about..there would end up being traffic jams or something, and it would just not be as serene.

The day started off just perfect. The weather was holding up, and even though it was overcast, the light was quite nice for pictures. The river goes through phases of being really wide to just snaking paths through rice paddy fields. The colour of the water is a deep army/olive green. All along the water is vegetation of lilly pads and algae forming their own little masses of what looks like land. Although those patches look beautiful, they are actually a result of pollution to the river. Its funny to be admiring something while also realizing the disparity of the situation.

The rivers edge is stunning, running though villages lined by palms, and along vast green fields. The water is the life of the people that live along it. They bathe, wash dishes, clean laundry, swim, and fish in these waters. This gorgeous backwater, that is also polluted by too many motor boats, and unsanitary disposal of waste. Their own waste. It makes you wonder how they do not see the problem in this. I suppose its just that they grew up here with this way of life, their parents did the same, and so on down the line. So to the people living along the banks its just the way it is.

Watching the women wash their clothes was such an oddity to me. First, its in this water, next, they are actually beating the hell out of each and every piece of fabric. I am befuddled at how this actually cleans anything. The woman stand on the step that is in the river at their home, and soak their clothes in the water. Some have bars of soap that they then rubbed on the fabric, some don't. They then start slamming each and every piece singularly on a stone of the wall. THWAP THWAP THWAP...over and over till they ring the cloth dry and either lay it on a bush or the ground, or, if they are lucky hang it on a line to dry.

The bathing is also a spectacle. They go to the same step, fully clothed in a long dress if its a woman, underwear if its a little boy or girl, or a piece of fabric around their waste if its a man. They then dunk all the way under in what cannot be warm water, then lather up like crazy beneath their clothing and dunk again. This is their bath. There is no modesty since they are technically dressed, but still its strange to have to wash while boats are going by, and all your neighbors can see you.

On board we just lazied on by as life continued on shore. Our chef was phenomenal, and could have been in the kitchen of a 5 star restuarnt as far as I am concerned. He whipped up magnificent vegetarian Kerelan dish after dish for us all day in that tiny little kitchen. The entirety of the ride was worth it for the food alone, and everything else was an extra perk!

After a quick stop to pick up some prawns for Jonathan and the crew to eat at dinner, our boat broke down. Leave it to India, and us, to have a moment like this!! Jonathan was more perturbed than I was, as I knew there was nothing we could do, and at this point, have come to expect any and all transport to break down!! During the 2and 1/2 hour hiatus on the bank of the river while 2 of the men worked to fix the boat the chef prepared our first delectable meal. We were gluttoness to say the least! The lunch spread consisted of a huge plate of rice, a large bowl of spicy vegetable curry, the most amazing beetroot recipe {the colour was extravagant magenta!} a typical Kerlen cabbage salad featuring cardamon galore, crispy popadons, a chilled green bean salad as well, and a perfectly spiced yogurt topping to cool all the spiciness down. There was enough food for 5 people, and every bite just melted into to gloryesness in our mouths.

After lunch the boat worked again, and we were back on our way along the water. It started to rain then, but even that was beautiful. The between lunch and dinner snack was tea and fried bananas. These bananas were perfection rolled in the slightest bit of flour and sugar with a dash of salt then fried, but not to the point of grossness. In fact I loved this treat.

We continued to relax and observe, and just when you would think we were too full to eat any more the chef brought out our dinner. Dinner was also a decadently huge meal. There was a misunderstanding {of course}and the chef brought out all 4 prawns for Jonathan and I, along with all the other plates of food. We had a hard time convincing the crew that we had bought the prawns for them to eat, mind you, these things were huge, about the size of lobsters. Finally they accepted the prawns when they realized I was going to have nothing to do with the creepy crawlers! The rest of the dinner consisted of another grand plate of rice, a warming pot full of chapatis, a large bowl of yummy Dal fry, an okra salad, a different kind of bean salad, and curried potatoes. We ate till we could eat no more, and I think we over did it, but it was all too good!!!

By the time dinner was over we had docked for the night. After digesting for quite a while, and trying to avoid the meringue of bugs while watching all the lizards scuttle about we decided to retire.

Sadly we both had a very poor nights sleep before being jolted awake at 7:30 am to prepare to head back. Overall this was quite an experience, and I am so glad we went for it..I mean, how many people can say they rode the backwaters of Kerela on a houseboat...even if it did break down?!!
xoxooxo
Alicia Claire